En fixed gear sykkel (fastnav) er en sykkel hvor drevet bak er skrudd fast på navet uten frihjulsnav. Så lenge hjulet går rundt går også kranken rundt og omvendt. En fixed gear sykkel kan også sykles baklengs...

Saturday, March 28, 2009

New ride


So the new frame and fork and some other parts are in house and out on the street. Surly steamroller frame, aerus carbon fork, race face evolveX lowriser bars, dmr dirt jump seat. The rest is from my other fixed gear bike.

Monday, March 16, 2009

Sete på plass! / New seat!



Hvitt Charge KNIFE sete på plass! White Charge Knife seat in tha' house!

Sunday, March 08, 2009

Sunday, March 01, 2009

Conversion or Track?

An age old debate...

Need advice on either buying a $600 track bike or doing a conversion on an 80's Racer?
This is definetly is a tough one now with all the new parts out there. I would compare this debate to the topic of abortion. It's an iffy subject and people can get pretty heated on both sides...

Conversions work if you're either trying to have a go at it on the cheap or are not wanting to invest too much into something you're unsure you'll end up liking. Other than that fact, do yourself a favor and don't bother wasting your time, money, and effort with one. Unless of course you're like myself and already know the ins and outs of bike building. Though despite that fact it's still a bitch putting a conversion together AND have it be reliable. This of course pertains to older 27" road bikes. Newer 700c conversions are def easier and more reliable.. But it's still a conversion...

A stock bike like a Bianchi Pista or Specialized Langster is good if you want something easy with a warranty that can be repaired at little to no cost by your LBS. But you'll also be riding a stock. bike.. Eventually you're going to want to swap some parts out so it doesn't look like you're riding around on a photo from a fucking catalog...

In my opinion the best thing to do is a proper DIY build. Find an old 10 speed at a thrift store or garage sale for like $20-$30 bucks and use it for scrap parts (depending on it's age). Then, go ahead and find yourself a used track frame and fork (drilled) somewhere for cheap. Something like an IRO is perfect. Then gather up your wheels and other essential parts I have listed in the next graph...

The main things you'll need to complete a build is a Frame, Fork, Wheels, Tires, Tubes, Rim Strips, Cranks, Bottom Bracket, Cog, Lockring, and Chain. Other parts such as bars, headset, grips or wrap, front brake caliper, brake lever, seat post, saddle, pedals straps and toe clips can be crap take off parts from old bikes or used gear from friends. They can be replaced later on when more funds become available. Your best bet is to spend the money on the first list of items...

If you're handy and looking to make a DIY project out of this, prepare to spend some money on tools as well. Unless of course you have a buddy who can help or loan you tools. Work share type shops are also great for this. The main tools you'll need are a set of metric Allen keys (mainly 4, 5, & 6), Pedal wrench, Chain whip, lockring tool, chain breaker tool, philips / flat head screwdrivers, and the Bottom Bracket tool that corresponds to the BB you have. Some of the tool kits around on the sites are good but most do not include track bike specific tools unless you get the expensive pro kits. If you've already have a roadie or other bikes lying around then a kit + the other track specific tools would be good...

A word on tolerances: Bike parts don't always fit together perfectly. All it takes for something to go wrong is a fraction of a millimeter. Though with the proper adapter/shim (or cut up coke can ((which I DO NOT reccomend)) ) you can make things work. For instance, you can make a 1 1/8" threadless stem work on a 1" threaded headset with the right adapters. Do your research and check over the forums. Make sure you know what sizes you're working with before you begin. If you look hard enough, most all bike parts have their size stamped on it somewhere...